By admin on July 11, 2008
Winter – PD
Approach from the Postero Alto hut (guarded) (3hrs). Climb is up the obvious couloir line. Plenty of belays available. Nice climb!
Posted in Grade PD, Picon de Jerez, Videos
By admin on July 7, 2008
Not too much water ice climbing as you might expect in this part of Spain. There are some icefalls on the NE face of Alcazaba (1hr approach from Siete Lagunas) usually in condition and some higher streams and barrancos on the northern side form good ice.
The nearest place to do some ice climbing is at the Hoya [...]
Posted in Ice Climbing, Videos | Tagged climbing, climbing ice, ice
By admin on June 29, 2008
Winter – AD (60º)
1st Ascent – 24th March 1970 Cuevas/Lopez/Asiain/Matose/Gomez
From the Laguna de la Mosca go right and then trend back left to gain the central couloir (30-40deg). The main couloir (canuto) is 300m long and at 50-55 deg. Above this there is some mixed climbing before trending right to finish just right of the summit.
Posted in Grade AD, Mulhacen, Videos
By admin on June 29, 2008
Winter – AD
1st Ascent – 2nd March 1952 Joaquin Fernandez/Alejandro Melgarejo/Manuel Martos/Juan B Ladron de Guevara.
Approach either via Siete Lagunas (1hr) or from the Cucharacha and over the Puntal de Vacares(3hrs). Steep snow with tha Tajos de Goteron on the right up to the summit.
Descent is easiest back to Siete Lagunas via the Alcazaba normal [...]
Posted in Alcazaba, Grade AD, Videos
By admin on June 27, 2008
Winter – AD (50º) (PD in good conditions with footsteps to follow!)
1st Ascent – Unknown
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the [...]
Posted in Grade AD, Veleta, Videos
By admin on June 27, 2008
Rock Climb – D (IV and V)
1st Ascent – 5th August 1967 Carlos Vazquez Canas/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Rafael Pinilla
Mesa/Emilio Ortiz/Sanchez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Martinez Perea
Winter – ED
1st Ascent – 28th January 1973 Javier Casanova/Rafael Moleon
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de [...]
Posted in Grade ED, Veleta, Videos
By admin on June 27, 2008
Rock Climb – AD (IV and V)
1st Ascent – 24th August 1969 Fernando Rivera Guerrero/Sebastian Segura Gonzalez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Pablo Bueno Porcel
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) [...]
Posted in Grade AD, Veleta, Videos
