This great mountaineering venue is still relatively unknown outside Spain. The area provides a fantastic alternative with guaranteed snow and ice, together with a greater chance of that magical combination of snow and sun. Plus, you need never queue for routes anymore!

This guide is ongoing work. We would welcome any feed back from climbers who have visited the area and have tried out any of the climbs. The guide gives mountaineers a flavour of what is on offer (at times only rough approach routes are suggested). Photos illustrate the approach and climb, rather than text. Interesting videos of the climbs are included when available.

The climbing feels and at times is, of an exploratory nature. The categories on the right have the climbs by grade or area. There are also posts on access and maps to use.

We have gathered the information from local sources and our own experience as mountain guides living and working permanently out here. We welcome the chance to share this information with interested parties. Use it as inspiration!

For groups, clubs and adventurers we offer a self guided support service including airport transfers, gear hire, dehydrated mountain food, gas, laminated maps, transport to and from the trailheads and cheap accommodation. We give free help and advice regarding route choice, access, weather and snow conditions to allcomers!

Approach from the Postero Alto hut (guarded) (3hrs). Climb is up the obvious couloir line. Plenty of belays available. Nice climb!

Malaga:
1hr 45 mins transfer to Lanjaron or Hoya de la Mora.
Everybody seems to fly to Malaga. Loads of options but Easyjet one of the cheapest.

Almeria:
2hrs transfer.

The major snows fall in November/December and March/April. January and February have little preciptiation normally, just 2 or 3 bad days a month. Best ice is found, not unsurprisingly, in January, February and March.

With the advent of spring in early April, warmer temperatures and more daylight mean that snowshoes are often needed in the afternoons.

When we first arrived here in 2001 snow depths throughout the season were between 3 and 4 metres. Approaches were more arduous. The last 2 winters have produced less than a metre! Still fine for our sport though.

Average snow level is between 2000-2500m for much of the winter.

The nearest place to do some ice climbing is at the Hoya de la Mora above the ski centre. You have a 25m walk to the fall which is located below and east of the green military bunkhouse. The ice is named appropriately “la cascada de los militares “. This is often 30m in height containing 4 or 5 routes. The icefall is actually formed out of the overflow from the bunkhouse water and sewerage systems! Not as nasty as you might think but keep away from the coloured ice on the far left looking up!

Protection: fixed bolted chain at a couple of points. We have utilised the bunkhouse railings but the Guardia Civil get a little exciteable off with this, but you can always find some natural protection further back with a bit of resourcefulness.

The icefall is popular with the spanish who can monopolise the available protection. Advice is to start early or finish late. We have actually climbed on into the night via headtorches, an eerie experience!

See the short video below called “Ice Climb 7000″ showing the ice climbing here.

Parque National de Sierra Nevada – La Alpujarra
Editorial Penebetica
1:40000
www.penebetica.com
ISBN: 84-933461-9-5

Access Locations:
(1) Hoya de la Mora (2500m). Follow the ski road from Granada to the ski town. Follow the signs left for “Veleta” above the town and reach a car park at the road end. Good quick access for Veleta, Los Machos and Catujo sectors. Cariguela hut is 3hrs from here.

(2) Cortijuela (1700m). Follow the road through La Zubia towards the Cumbres Verdes. Continue on past Fuente del Hervidero to the Cortijuela. Good for access to Dilar and Cartujo sectors.

(3) Fuente Fria (Dehesa de Durcal) (2150m). Follow the rough track above Niguelas going up the gorge. Keep going until the Cortijos de Echevaria are reached. Continue traversing NE on poor track until the road end at Fuente Fria. 4WD only. Good for Caballo and Cartujo access from the west.

(4) Ventura trailhead (2100m). Follow the track up the side of El Frenazo restaurant in Lanjaron. Signs lead in 45 mins to the Ventura trailhead. 15 mins to ruined Ventura hut. 3hrs to hut at Laguna de Caballo. At times 4WD necessary.

(5) Puente Palo (1750m). Above the village of Cañar and accessible from either Orgiva or Lanjaron (40 mins). Rough track but 4WD not necessary. Start point for Tajos de los Machos. 2 hours to Cebollar hut from here. Elorrieta is 5 hours and 1500m ascent!

(6) Casa Forestal La Pluca (2225m). East side of Las Alegas above the western flank of the Poqueira Gorge. Access from Soportujar (30 mins) on rough track. High access to Tajos de los Machos and Elorrieta hut (4hrs).

(7) Centro Electrico Cebadilla (1500m). Main sheltered route to Poqueira Hut in winter if snow low down. Just a 15 min drive above Capileira. Hut is 3 hours from here.

(8 ) Hoya de Portillo (2150m). A rough track above Capileira leads in 25 mins to the road end at a barrier by a ranger station. 4WD not normally necessary. Track upwards through the forest leads either to the Poqueira hut (3hrs) or the south ridge of Mulhacen. 2.5hrs to the Poqueira Hut. 5 hours to the Cariguela hut.

(9) Trevelez (1600m). The town is good for access to Alcazaba via Siete Lagunas (2900m).

(10) Jerez de Marsquesado. Normally start or end point for Los Tres Miles full ridge traverse. Long unrelenting ascent is necessary from here!

(11) Verada de Estrella. Via the town of Guejar Sierra. Follow the road through the town and via a series of road tunnels either side of the Genil river. Finally you arrive at the road end when there is ample car space available. Access the N and NW sides of Mulhacen, Alcazaba, Puntal de la Caldera from here. Also the Lanchar ridge can be started from here. 2hrs to the Cueva Sectreta bivouac site.