Winter Mountaineering Guide, Sierra Nevada, SpainGrade D

Raspones de Rio Seco (3,120m)

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:42:04 +0000

Winter – Various PD to D (III to V Sup)
1st Ascent – Unknown

Approach from the Poqueira, Cariguela or Viento hut. Loads of potential here with many short gullies in a fantastic setting. All grades, good protection. The main ridge of the Raspones looks inviting too?

Mulhacen (3,481m) N face (29a)

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:28:11 +0000

Winter – D (45º and IV)
1st Ascent – 31st January 1966 Rafael Pinilla Mesa/Jesus Baca Molero

Mulhacen (3,481m) NE ridge (via Corredor de Siete Lagunas)

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:24:38 +0000

Winter – AD (Ave 50º)
1st Ascent – 17th January 1962 Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Angel Carretero/Jose Contreras/Emilio Ortiz

Approach via Siete Lagunas. Straightforward ascent. Sometimes easier, maybe PD.

Alcazaba (3,366m) W face

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:10:13 +0000

Winter – D (45º)
1st Ascent – 31st March 1973 Fernandez/Ramos

Alcazaba (3,366m) NW face (via Gran Espolon)

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:08:33 +0000

Winter – D
1st Ascent – 15th February 1965 Carlos Vazquez Canas/Alejandro Gonzalez

Approach via Cueva Secreta. Ascent is a classic. Follow the main obvious ridge (the right line on the photo below). At first there is steep 55 deg ice for 300m. Thereafter there is mixed ground of IV and V and involves some delicate pitches. There is frequent verglas.

Descent easiest to Trevelez via Siete Lagunas

Alcazaba (3,366m) N face (via NE ridge)

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:07:23 +0000

Winter – D
1st Ascent – February 1956 Zapata/Olmedo

Approach via Puntal de Vacares (1hr) or via Siete Lagunas (1hr). Where the ridge abuts against the main north face of the mountain, take a slanting line rightwards onto the north west face before heading directly up the first main break. This is mixed ground with passages of IV. Keep up until above the level of the Tajos de Goteron and then move back left onto the true NE ridge of Alcazaba, which is followed to the summit.

Descent easiest to Siete Lagunas and down to Trevelez.

Pico de Cartujo ridge (3,152m)

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:03:47 +0000

Winter – D (80º)
1st Ascent – 6th January 1964 Carlos Vasquez Canas/Jose Ruiz Rodriguez/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Emilio Ortiz Sanchez

Approach. From Borreguiles and the ski centre or Hoya de la Mora past Lagunillas and Las Yuegas. There are 3 main difficulties in winter. (1) 100m after starting the arete you meet an 80m couloir of ice at 75 deg. (2) Another 200m along, there is a 30m wall of rock at 70 deg, often with verglas. (3) A final section of steep snow 40m long at 80 deg. Apart from these 3 passages there is a short 7m abseil avoiding a difficult corniced section. Otherwise it is short section of rock and ice. Total length is 1200m with 400m ascent. A good long mountaineering route. Either stay at the Wlorrieta or descend back to the ski area.

Cerro de los Machos (3,329m) NE Face

admin — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 15:25:31 +0000

Winter – D (50º)
1st Ascent – 22 February 1970 Rafael Pinilla Mesa/Carlos Vasquez Canas

Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make an abseil or steep downclimb into the Veredon Superior, the key to the Corral de Veleta.

Climb across the Col de los Monteses and so onto the steep NE face. Go left, cross the face and climb right before trending dirctly for the summit. A long day over continuously difficult terrain.

Cerro de los Machos (3,329m) NE ridge

admin — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 14:46:18 +0000

Winter – D (up to 65º)
1st Ascent – 18th March 1967 Emilio Ortiz Sanchez/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Rafael Pinilla Mesa

Reach the Paso de las Monteses and then ascend the arete directly. A mixed climb on 45 to 50 deg slopes but with a delicate section of 65 deg and V rock. Descend via the easy SW slopes to the Col de Cariguela.

Veta Grande (2,981m)

admin — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 14:33:32 +0000

Winter – AD (65º)
1st Ascent – Unknown

Climb – This route forms a natural line between the Corral del Veleta and the Corral del Valdeinfierno and crosses the upper part of the Lanchar Ridge. After descending the Veredon Superior slopes of average angle 65° will be met on the route. The Veta Grande forms an extraordinary viewpoint showing the whole range from the Puntal de Vacares to Veleta. Descents are long and hard from here!