Grade AD

Crestones area

Winter – PD to AD
1st Ascent – Unknown
Approach from Poqueira(2hrs), Viento (45 mins), Caldera (1hr) or Cariguela (1hr). Loads of potential for short routes. You will have to drop down one of the easier gullies, contour round before coming up one of the harder variations. Many lines exist. This is climbing of an exploratory nature!

 

Puntal de la Caldera (3,226) N face

Winter – AD (50º)
1st Ascent – 24th December 1972 Fernandez/Huertas

Approach the Col de Ciervo from Poqueira (2hrs) or Caldera (30mins) huts. Drop over the col and steeply down trending leftwards towards the minor peak of Juegos de Bolos. Traverse under the north face and…… choose your route! The NW ridge can be reached if you [...]

Mulhacen (3,481m) Cara Norte (29b)

Winter – AD (60º)
1st Ascent – 24th March 1970 Cuevas/Lopez/Asiain/Matose/Gomez
From the Laguna de la Mosca go right and then trend back left to gain the central couloir (30-40deg). The main couloir (canuto) is 300m long and at 50-55 deg. Above this there is some mixed climbing before trending right to finish just right of the summit.
 
 
 
 

 
 

Alcazaba (3,366m) S face (via Siete Lagunas)

Winter – PD
1st Ascent – Unknown
From Siete Lagunas follow the valley NW and upwardstowards its head. Before reaching the ridgeline at Puntal de Siete Lagunas look right. A break in the cliffs will be seen. Go steeply up heading for this break. A small step at half height may be problematic and if iced up [...]

Alcazaba (3,366m) via Tajos Goteron

Winter – AD
1st Ascent – 2nd March 1952 Joaquin Fernandez/Alejandro Melgarejo/Manuel Martos/Juan B Ladron de Guevara.
Approach either via Siete Lagunas (1hr) or from the Cucharacha and over the Puntal de Vacares(3hrs). Steep snow with tha Tajos de Goteron on the right up to the summit.
Descent is easiest back to Siete Lagunas via the Alcazaba normal [...]

Lagune de las Yeguas (2,882m) to the Fraile de Capileira (3,160m)

Winter – AD
1st Ascent – Unknown

Salon (3,325m) Corredor Norte

Salon (3,325m) Corredor Norte

Winter – AD (50º) (PD in good conditions with footsteps to follow!)
1st Ascent – Unknown

Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the [...]

Cerro de los Machos (3,329m) N Face

Winter – AD
1st Ascent – 10th February 1974 Jose Guardia Olmedo/Francisco Olmedo Roelas
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and [...]

Veta Grande (2,981m) (via Lanchar Ridge)

Winter – AD (60º and III)
1st Ascent – 8th December 1969 Jose Guardia Olmedo/Francisco Olmedo RoelasAccess via Guejar Sierra and Verada de la Estrella. The ridge is situated on the left side of the Rio Valdeinfierno. The first third of the ridge is easy. The second has an average angle of 60 deg and rock [...]

Veleta (3,394m) N Face (via Trompeta)

Rock Climb – AD (IV and V)
1st Ascent – 24th August 1969 Fernando Rivera Guerrero/Sebastian Segura Gonzalez/Jesus Baca Molero/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Pablo Bueno Porcel

Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) [...]