Winter Mountaineering Guide, Sierra Nevada, SpainPico de Cartujo

Pico de Cartujo ridge (3,152m)

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:03:47 +0000

Winter – D (80º)
1st Ascent – 6th January 1964 Carlos Vasquez Canas/Jose Ruiz Rodriguez/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Emilio Ortiz Sanchez

Approach. From Borreguiles and the ski centre or Hoya de la Mora past Lagunillas and Las Yuegas. There are 3 main difficulties in winter. (1) 100m after starting the arete you meet an 80m couloir of ice at 75 deg. (2) Another 200m along, there is a 30m wall of rock at 70 deg, often with verglas. (3) A final section of steep snow 40m long at 80 deg. Apart from these 3 passages there is a short 7m abseil avoiding a difficult corniced section. Otherwise it is short section of rock and ice. Total length is 1200m with 400m ascent. A good long mountaineering route. Either stay at the Wlorrieta or descend back to the ski area.

Lagune de las Yeguas (2,882m) to the Fraile de Capileira (3,160m)

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:02:26 +0000

Winter – AD
1st Ascent – Unknown

Laguna de las Yeguas (2,882m) to the Elorrieta hut (3,187m)

admin — Sat, 28 Jun 2008 18:21:23 +0000

Winter – F/PD
1st Ascent – Unknown

Quickest approach is via Borreguiles above the ski centre. Traverse past the iced up Laguna and then follow the trail along the side of Tajos de la Virgen to the Elorrieta hut. N.B This is an avalanche blackspot and fatalities have occurred here!