Winter Mountaineering Guide, Sierra Nevada, SpainAlcazaba

Alcazaba (3,366m) NE face

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:15:26 +0000

Winter – ED
1st Ascent – Unknown

Alcazaba (3,366m) S face (via Siete Lagunas)

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:13:44 +0000

Winter – PD
1st Ascent – Unknown

From Siete Lagunas follow the valley NW and upwardstowards its head. Before reaching the ridgeline at Puntal de Siete Lagunas look right. A break in the cliffs will be seen. Go steeply up heading for this break. A small step at half height may be problematic and if iced up may push the grade to AD. Otherwise it is steep snow to the col and easily on to the summit (3hrs from Siete Lagunas). Descend via the normal route.

Alcazaba (3,366m) SE face (via Siete Lagunas)

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:11:43 +0000

Winter – F
1st Ascent – Unknown

Approach from Siete Lagunas. Take the broad ridge N of Siete Lagunas and either follow the ridgeline upwards or traverse rightwards for a small col. Both lead easily to the summit (3hrs). Descent the same way. This is the easiest route to the summit in winter.

Alcazaba (3,366m) W face

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:10:13 +0000

Winter – D (45º)
1st Ascent – 31st March 1973 Fernandez/Ramos

Alcazaba (3,366m) NW face (via Gran Espolon)

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:08:33 +0000

Winter – D
1st Ascent – 15th February 1965 Carlos Vazquez Canas/Alejandro Gonzalez

Approach via Cueva Secreta. Ascent is a classic. Follow the main obvious ridge (the right line on the photo below). At first there is steep 55 deg ice for 300m. Thereafter there is mixed ground of IV and V and involves some delicate pitches. There is frequent verglas.

Descent easiest to Trevelez via Siete Lagunas

Alcazaba (3,366m) N face (via NE ridge)

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:07:23 +0000

Winter – D
1st Ascent – February 1956 Zapata/Olmedo

Approach via Puntal de Vacares (1hr) or via Siete Lagunas (1hr). Where the ridge abuts against the main north face of the mountain, take a slanting line rightwards onto the north west face before heading directly up the first main break. This is mixed ground with passages of IV. Keep up until above the level of the Tajos de Goteron and then move back left onto the true NE ridge of Alcazaba, which is followed to the summit.

Descent easiest to Siete Lagunas and down to Trevelez.

Alcazaba (3,366m) via Tajos Goteron

admin — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:05:45 +0000

Winter – AD
1st Ascent – 2nd March 1952 Joaquin Fernandez/Alejandro Melgarejo/Manuel Martos/Juan B Ladron de Guevara.

Approach either via Siete Lagunas (1hr) or from the Cucharacha and over the Puntal de Vacares(3hrs). Steep snow with tha Tajos de Goteron on the right up to the summit.

Descent is easiest back to Siete Lagunas via the Alcazaba normal route (F) and hence to Trevelez.

Short video of an ascent via the Tajos Goteron icefalls just left of the route shown above