Veleta (3,394m) NE Face (via Directa)
June 27th, 2008 Posted in Grade AD, VeletaRock Climb - AD (IV to V Sup)
1st Ascent - 23rd August 1964 Maurice Lemaine/Carlos Vazquez Canas/Jose Ruiz/Emilio Ortiz Sanchez
Approach - Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.
Climb - The start of the climb is found some 10 metres right of the highest point of the Corredor del Salon. The climb commences with an 8 metre crack with an exit onto a small ridge (V). Continue the climb traversing difficult blocks (V Sup) until a platform is reached. Almost immediately you come to the “paso horizontal” moving left for 12 metres to reach a stance, which joins the Olmedo-Carlos route. Follow this up a small chimney, cracks and ridges to the top of the peak.
