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Veleta (3,394m) Extraplomos o Diedros del Veleta

June 27th, 2008 Posted in Grade ED, Veleta

Rock Climb - ED (numerous V, VI and A2)
1st Ascent -
26 July 1967 Carlos Vasquez Canas/Rafael Pinilla Mesa/Jose Ruiz Rodriguez

Veleta approach

Approach - Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make short descent onto a traversing path (Veredon Superior) that descends into the Corral de Veleta.

Climb - Start the climb on a wall with very delicate holds. This reaches a more vertical wall with scarce holds (V). The next 60 metres of free climbing are at V Sup at the end of which are overhanging walls. At the end of this section a 6 metre pendulum needs to be made leftwards into a small couloir before continuing the climb. At the end of the couloir large overhangs bar progress. A horizontal passage of 6 metres leads to another section, which is climbed, aided (A2) for another 6 metres.

Veredon Superior access to Veleta

North face Veleta

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