Winter – AD
1st Ascent – 10th February 1974 Jose Guardia Olmedo/Francisco Olmedo Roelas
Approach – Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta and walk from there (½hr). From here make an abseil or steep downclimb into the Veredon Superior, the key to the Corral de Veleta.
The first third is frequently verglassed with passages of grade V rock, alternating with narrow icy stretches. The next 10 pitches are at an average angle of 50 deg. The slope eases for the last part to the summit. Descend down the easy SW slopes to the Col de Cariguela.
