An online winter climbing guide for climbers, ski tourers and mountaineers in the Sierra Nevada mountains of Spain. (Please note: this is an ongoing project)
This great mountaineering venue is still relatively unknown outside Spain. The area provides a fantastic alternative with guaranteed snow and ice, together with a greater chance of that magical combination of [...]
Winter Mountaineering Guide Sierra Nevada, Spain
An online winter climbing guide for climbers, ski tourers and mountaineers
Welcome
Mulhacen (3,481m) N face (29d)
Winter - ED (60º and V Sup)
1st Ascent - 6th January 1973 Barragan/Padilla
Tajos de la Virgen ridge (3,160m)
Winter - PD/AD Mixed
1st Ascent - Unknown
Follow the access route to Los Posiciones and thence to the Collado de Cariguela (3hrs, hut). Ridge is similar but shorter than the Aonach Eagach in Scotland. A mixed route, always. Can be quite hard under deep powder snow. Follow the ridge over 2 crux sections to the Elorietta bivouac [...]
Alcazaba (3,366m) NE face
Winter - ED
1st Ascent - Unknown
Cerro de los Machos (3,329m) W Face
Winter - PD
1st Ascent - 12th April 1968
Approach - Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon [...]
Other posts in Cerro de los Machos
Pico de Cartujo ridge (3,152m)
Winter - D (80º)
1st Ascent - 6th January 1964 Carlos Vasquez Canas/Jose Ruiz Rodriguez/Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Emilio Ortiz Sanchez
Approach. From Borreguiles and the ski centre or Hoya de la Mora past Lagunillas and Las Yuegas. There are 3 main difficulties in winter. (1) 100m after starting the arete you meet an 80m couloir of ice at [...]
Other posts in Pico de Cartujo
Veta Grande (3,091m) (El Paso de las Monteses)
Winter - PD
1st Ascent - Unknown
Approach - Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon del Veleta [...]
Other posts in Veta Grande
Flickr Photos
Recent Posts
Welcome
An online winter climbing guide for climbers, ski tourers and mountaineers in the Sierra Nevada mountains of Spain. (Please note: this is an ongoing project)
This great mountaineering venue is still relatively unknown outside Spain. The area provides a fantastic alternative with guaranteed snow and ice, together with a greater chance of that magical combination of [...]
Cerro de Caballo
To the NE and SE of the summit area there exist some good lines of easy terrain eminently suitable for a beginner or those new to the sport.
Trip Report and photos showing a visit to the area to climb
Relief Map
Click to enlarge
Picon de Jerez via Canuto Alhori
Winter - PD
Approach from the Postero Alto hut (guarded) (3hrs). Climb is up the obvious couloir line. Plenty of belays available. Nice climb!
Getting Here
Granada:
45 min transfer to Lanjaron or Hoya de la Mora.
Ryanair currently fly from Stansted, Liverpool and East Midlands but check because there are rumours that they are pulling out of some routes to Granada this winter.
Malaga:
1hr 45 mins transfer to Lanjaron or Hoya de la Mora.
Everybody seems to fly to Malaga. Loads of options but [...]
When?
The first snows fall in November but realistically mountaineering doesnt get going until early December. The season last well into May.
The major snows fall in November/December and March/April. January and February have little preciptiation normally, just 2 or 3 bad days a month. Best ice is found, not unsurprisingly, in January, February and March.
With the [...]
Ice Climbing
Not too much water ice climbing as you might expect in this part of Spain. There are some icefalls on the NE face of Alcazaba (1hr approach from Siete Lagunas) usually in condition and some higher streams and barrancos on the northern side form good ice.
The nearest place to do some ice climbing is at the Hoya [...]
Recommended map
The best and most accurate map around is the following:
Parque National de Sierra Nevada - La Alpujarra
Editorial Penebetica
1:40000
www.penebetica.com
ISBN: 84-933461-9-5
Cerro de los Machos (3,329m) W Face
Winter - PD
1st Ascent - 12th April 1968
Approach - Either (a) start from the Albergues at Hoya del Moro (2,500m). Climb steadily north past the statue to the Virgen de las Nieves to the Balcon del Veleta (1½hrs) or (b) pay for a lift pass and take the Gondola and chair to below the Balcon [...]
Refugio de Elorrieta (3,201m) to the Cerro de Caballo (3,015m)
Winter - F
1st Ascent - Unknown
An easy traverse all above 3000m. Better if done in conjunction with the Tajos de la Virgen ridge.
